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Irrawaddy Steamers 2010, Part 11 |
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This is part of our 2010 Burma Crusade. The tyre was mended and we presented ourselves at "The Universal" mill just after 09.00, there was nothing 'on the clock' for the boiler although the fire was raging. On the river bank, a monk went speeding past - note three other mills behind - and a boat load of paddy was being unloaded the usual hard way.
Finally just 15 minutes later then predicted at 10.15, #2 engineman stepped up and applied just a hint of steam which warmed the cylinder and escaped through the drain cocks. Two minutes later, more smartly turned out #1 engineman applied a little more pressure and we were away...
From the other side, there was only the slightest hint of blur from the flywheel and a different crank position to indicate the engine was running. I was primarily taking video and the still record was secondary. Remember that this 14" engine is unique in the country as bearing "Marshall & Co." with no mention of "Sons" suggesting to me it is VERY old. I now understand that the change of name was made following William Marshall's death in 1862, in other words this engine is probably about 150 years old which must surely make it the oldest commercially working ('real') stationary steam engine in the world.
Earlier, before start up I had photographed the installation to avoid the dust, it looked brand new, it's a model operation and a credit to all concerned. The owner has a full time manager and engineer as well as nearly 100 staff who work two continuous 12 hours shifts. I hesitate to use the word 'enlightened ' because these conditions would fall far short of 'international standards' but it was really good to see a properly run mill. I miss the shambles of an operation that used to occupy this site, with its even older over cylinder valved engine, but today's mill is a great improvement and an excellent advertisement for appropriate technology.
As we left, this was the view from the river bridge.
Before we left for Kyaiklat, I couldn't resist popping into to see an old Tangye working on the west side of the river, the previous time we had been here was in the afternoon when half the engine was in the sun and half was not... This time it ran so sweetly that, like the Marshall above, you could barely detect movement in the stills.
In Kyaiklat we treated ourselves to a boat which would not only get us to the mills which were inaccessible by road, but also return us down river to Pyapon afterwards. So Mahtgyi was sent back to have the afternoon off, he had more than earned it. At the first mill, it took me several minutes to realise that I was looking at a Richardson governor and not a Hartnell and that the engine was a Robey - this despite my notes from the 2009 trip telling me this.
The two Marshalls in this area of Kyaiklat which were on the 'missing list' were idle, so we headed downstream but suddenly stopped when our propeller threatened to fall off its shaft. I'm not sure if it was the hammering or the prayers to the Buddha, but 5 minutes later we were on our way again.
Down the bottom end of town were several new mills which required investigating. The first had a large Tangye which for some reason had a second flywheel coupled to the first, judging from the amount of time spent checking the link, this was not a very successful arrangement. Next was a mill which was just 6 months old, in which time it had accumulated a vast amount of dirt and the engine was none too healthy - it was another Rangoon Docking and Engineering MacDonald type engine, apparently it had come from the Daiku area north of Bago, just before we visited the area last year.
After a mill with a Marshall awaiting work, we found another Robey. It's not totally apparent from these pictures but the ridge above the crosshead slopes gently down from the cylinder end and the valve chest sticks out significantly, both are 'Robey signs'. The second picture does not lie, this engine was not well cared for.
Back we went to the set of three mills whose owner is trying to amass the biggest collection of Marshalls in the country. He'd got 2 K class and 1 C class in 2009 and now he's added a 16" C class (from about 1900!) which is in store outside, apparently he's toying with using it to generate electricity from his anticipated mountain of spare husks. And, by the way, he's into ship building next door too. It was time to get going, but then we passed another mill just outside town, Han couldn't refuse me and we found a set aside 11" Tangye and a 13" Marshall being installed to replace it. He was glad to be back on the boat as apparently this was government owned and perhaps not the kind of place he should be taking foreigners. It was not perhaps the most interesting of our boat journeys, but it was smoother than the roads, there was plenty of traffic including coconuts and it was pleasantly cool in the late afternoon sun.
Until, that is, the propeller threatened to fall off again. And then again and again. As there was no pagoda nearby for a quick prayer, it took longer to sort out. First we drifted into the bank and then we watched as the propeller and shaft were swung on board for yet another 'repair' as the sun went down behind the palm trees.
Han had missed his lunch (yet again) and was starving, we were just hoping there were no sharks as we were close to the sea, certainly all of us did not fancy another night on a boat on the Irrawaddy. In fact 20 minutes later we were ashore but if our boatmen had half a brain he would have spent the night in Pyapon instead of returning to Kyaiklat as planned. Ahead was the least comfortable night of the tour, the La Pyat Guest House had the luxury room pre-booked for another visitor and we were turfed out it into main block with non-stop guest and traffic noise till late, with the facilities down the corridor. It was otherwise quite clean and comfortable, but sleep was very much at a premium. This was one reason I had booked a start for 06.00 for Bogalay, there really didn't seem much point trying to lie in bed much longer. |
