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Sunday 11
June
British Airways
flight BA 38, ticket booked on internet for £380. Online check in very convenient. The usual late start from Heathrow due to
congestion
Negotiate
taxi to Qianwei with city taxi driver for Y300 (£21). Depart airport at 1417 and taken to long
distance vehicle which proceeds to waste about half an hour getting petrol in
town then along expressway to outskirts of Leshan where I am transferred to a
local taxi with a mad driver. Had it not
been for horrendous road works I would probably have made the 1730 from
Shibanxi but only reached the roundabout on the outskirts of Qianwei, 7½ miles
away, at 1719. A nuisance but able to
catch up by dint of an early start next morning.
Tianbo
Hotel had only suites available at Y580 so continue down road to next hotel on
right (Feng Huang?) where a very good clean en suite room was Y100
(£6.95). This place is between the two
bus stations, actually only one block after the local bus terminal, just before
the traffic lights.
Good
massage place on the street first left after the local bus station, Y45 (£3.15)
for one hour.
Tuesday 13 June
Taxi
at 0545 to Shibanxi, Y26 (£1.80) on meter.
Enter Old China once again but arrive at station so early breakfast is
not even cooked. If you are catching the
0700 train 0600 is the earliest you need to leave Qianwei.
0700 Shibanxi Huangcunjin 0815 7
0820 Huangcunjin Caiziba 0850 7
1100 Mifeng Huangcunjin 1145 10
1400 Shibanxi Huangcunjin 1515 10
I
was the only outsider on the trains all day.
At
Caiziba value train clattering off around the big curve then walk down to
Mifeng. En route No. 9 comes up on a
brick train. The bricks are dropped off
where required & left in a big heap by the lineside.
On
the 1100 from Mifeng we crossed No. 9 on a coal train at Jiaoba.
After
watching the 1520 depart walk back from Huangcunjin to Bagou. Book into the usual ludian below the station,
same babbling family, just imagine having granny as a mother in law. Pay Y50 (£3.45) for the same room/same price
as last year. Good 3 plate dinner 25 Yuan,
uninspiring breakfast 5 Yuan. Communication
through phrase books proves difficult, not all the family are literate. I am asked through young girl interpreter if
I think the place is good value, my reply is that it is just average.
Attempt
to phot 1840 from Bagou to Huangcunjin, light down to 30th at
2.4. A lovely sight even so.
0845 Bagou Huangcunjin 0850 10
0855 Huangcunjin Shibanxi 1015 10
1045 Shibanxi Huangcunjin 1205 10
1320 Mifeng - Shibanxi 1350 7 train engine, 10 pilot
Another
dull and cool morning at Bagou. Late
start from Bagou due to large volumes of merchandise being handled. Cross No. 7 on coal empties at Mifeng 0945
hrs. Late start from Shibanxi at 1045
following late arrival and coaling of loco.
Further delay crossing No. 7 again with its loaded coal train at Jiaoba.
Once
again we met up with No. 7, still at Mifeng with its coal train at 1300. This of course meant that the runround loop
was blocked so a complicated set of shunting moves took place and we eventually
left double headed with the coal wagons remaining at Mifeng.
The
dreaded tourists were on the scene this day.
My coach (the staff coach) on the 1045 ex Shibanxi was invaded by a group
of prosperous looking Beijingers who fortunately got off at Yuejin. There were a few other Chinese tourists
around at Shibanxi and Yuejin as well but none dared penetrate the rural
heartland.
Down
into the town for bus to Qianwei local bus station. The long distance bus terminal at Qianwei is
further down the road. Get bus to
There
is a money change place at the airport but they would not change travellers
cheques because their
2220
flight to
Thursday 15 June
Taxi
from outside hotel to Liujiaxia, 171 Yuan (£11.90) including toll for mountain
road. Took 1 hour 40 minutes despite
very fast driving on new road next to river once clear of the sprawling
JS
8223 photted arriving Liujiaxia 1154 on the one coach shuttle, a fine sight
through the market stalls set up on the crossing street and platform. Note that this time is slightly earlier than
previous reports.
1158 Liujiaxia Gucheng 1206 JS
8223
Nice
along the
1358 Gucheng - Liujiaxia 1406 JS
8227
1417 Liujiaxia Shangpo 1600 JS 8227 + JS 8223 banker Gucheng to
Baijiba
I could only estimate the load of the mixed. I put down 900 tons but on reflection I think
most of the wagons were loaded rather than empty so it could have been as much
as 1400 tons. The train definitely
needed two locos with much flog up from Gucheng and also from the river to
Baijiba where the banker dropped off.
The passenger coaches and the van were both crowded. British semaphores at loops add to the lines
character.
A
long hot wait at Shangpo where I was invited into someones house, a
traditional old place with a small shop at the front and a rear courtyard with
a rose and vegetable garden.
1826 Shangpo - Liujiaxia 1950 JS
8227
Only
a light load with a handful of empty wagons but a very pleasant run along the
gorge with the low evening sunlight.
Again train crowded with students.
Stay
at Huakang Hotel on the river side of main street towards Gucheng, once again
the nearest hotel to the station on this road would not take me. Room with facilities Y80 (£5.60), quite
good. Foot massage upstairs by male
masseur, a new experience!
Friday 16 June
0748 Liujiaxia Gucheng 0756 JS
8223
Good
along river with early morning sunlight.
Back
to Liujiaxia by bus, recognised by English speaking lady from last year. Explore town during morning, little to see
but quite clean and pleasant down by the river.
Photograph 1158 arrival but sun is virtually overhead.
1202 Liujiaxia Gucheng 1210 JS
8223
Travel
with bus lady going home for lunch, I am invited to share meal and meet the
family. Given a glass of Chinese red
wine, an experience I will attempt to avoid in future. We return again at 1400.
1400 Gucheng - Liujiaxia 1408 JS
8227
1420 Liujiaxia Shangpo 1555 JS 8227
Conveyed
4 empty and 4 loaded wagons + 2 coaches and van, 490 tons gross. Note that with this light load train was not
banked so it must only be assisted when really necessary. The wagons are now on the front in both
directions.
Very
good thrash out of Gucheng and also good on starts & other uphill
sections. Two trussed sheep in van
provided further good sound effects.
Very
hot afternoon, stay in train to avoid worst of heat. Note that Shangpo is not the name used by
locals for this place.
CNR
diesel arrives with a very long freight, some of the wagons were had to be left
for the following days train
1823 Shangpo - Liujiaxia 1956 JS
8227
Load
27 empty wagons, 2 bogies + van, 775 tons gross (by now I had sussed what a
wagon spring looked like when empty or loaded.)
An
excellent run. Despite being almost a
quarter of a mile behind the loco some very good noise was heard. On the scenic climb out of Yanguoxia as the
line curves up and round through barren rocky hills to the summit tunnel the
loco looked superb.
The
train also made a very fine sight snaking round the curves along the
river. After crossing the river the low
sun at rear glinting on the train added to the atmosphere. Then a superb finale as we flogged up away
from the river past the irrigated tree lined fields with the multi coloured
riverside cliffs in the background. The
loco could even be heard in the still evening air when out of sight on an S
bend.
After
detaching the vans at Gucheng we rattled nicely along the
And
so ended a fine afternoons bashing, not quite up to the standard of a pair of
QJs on a 17 coach 770 ton express over Tianzhu but standing comparison with
much of the best that was around in the 1990s certainly a superb bash for
2006.
Good
dinner at a restaurant on the riverbank then back to the hotel for a massage. Presented with a different male masseur but
after much bafflement and arguing a sweet young girl was brought in to perform.
Saturday 17 June
Small
bus to Lanzhou West bus station, dep 0800 arrive 1000. Very slow trolleybus to railway station then walk
down road to bus station. Being a
Saturday roads noticeably less busy in town.
Hassle buying ticket for bus to Baiyin.
Booking office seems not to sell tickets for all the buses, they wanted
to put me on the 1240. Get on bus just
outside terminal at 1129 & buy ticket on board. Arrives Baiyin bus station 1255.
1515 Baiyin Shenbutong 1555 SY
1047
1705 Shenbutong Baiyin 1740 SY
1047
1815 Baiyin Shenbutong 1850 SY
1047
1915 Shenbutong Baiyin 1950 SY
1047
Load
now 7 but still some very good noise all the way from the outskirts of Baiyin. Trains not that busy, perhaps because it was
Saturday. The loco of the 1515 does not
wait at Shenbutong but disappears for an hour or so.
This
area is still an environment disaster, smog, dust, pollution, dereliction,
multicoloured riverbeds and chimneys pouring out filth.
Stay
again at Tongcheng Hotel again. Last
years Y120 rooms now being sold at Y90 (£6.25).
Meal in revolving restaurant on 25th floor. Revolving mechanism had failed, given the
state of Baiyin probably no bad thing.
This
hotel has a swish bathhouse just round the corner downstairs which came up with
a masseuse and an oil massage which will not be easily forgotten. The girl, attractive to put it mildly, was
somewhat younger than usual and wearing very tight & very short shorts plus
a nice feminine lacy top. She
administered a 45 minute massage which was rather more all encompassing than
usual and capable of driving a 95 year old wild. All this for Y88 + Y15 for the bathhouse
(£7.15). So all you single men, or
married men even who fancy a change from what er indoors offers on a regular
basis, dont miss this place!
Sunday 18 June
0735 Baiyin Liugongli 0750 SY
1047
0805 Liugongli Shenbutong 0832 SY
1583
0910 Shenbutong Baiyin 0945 SY
1583
Note
that the 0735 was running on a Sunday, well loaded too. Caught this train to Liugongli then forward
on the 0750. More good noise on the 0735
en route and leaving Liugongli. Fine
climb up into the barren hills to Shenbutong with SY 1583.
As
with last years visit no sign on either day of police or security services
anywhere.
Bus
from the picking up point one block south of the bus station to
If
you are going from Baiyin to
Arrive
at railway station 1130 and like last year hard sleeper berth still available
to Zhengzhou on T118 Lanzhou Shanghai express for a mere Y256 (£17.80). Scenic sections of run alleviate boredom.
Monday 19 June
Catch
first bus to Pingdingshan at 0520 from bus terminal opposite station. Sods about in
To
Pingdingshan Fandian. Rooms now Y160,
haggled down to Y138 (£9.60). Last years
price was Y120.
Book
flight and airport taxi at Fandian travel agency for Wednesday.
1330 Zhongxin Hanzhuang 1535 SY
1687
1549 Hanzhuang Zhongxin 1758 SY
1687
Baking
hot day, 98˚F. All the fans in the
coach were working, but to no effect, just like being in an oven, shades of
bashing in
Some
good noise on the uphill stretches on the way out but actually much better on
the way back with the loco tender first.
2
diesels in use on Hanzhuang line freights, also JS 6253/8120. The other passenger loco was JS 8065
Thankful
for a/c taxi back to hotel. Pingdingshan
taxis now smart modern and metered. In
fact taxis in most cities now metered, start price in Liujiaxia is a modest
Y3.
Good
meal at Fandian then expensive but good massage, Y28 bathhouse + Y116 oil &
walk over massage (£10)
Tuesday 20 June
A
cooler day, minimum 74˚F, maximum 96˚F but cooler by evening with
thunderstorms.
0740 Zhongxin Hanzhuang 0945 SY
1209
0955 Hanzhuang Zhongxin 1200 SY
1209
Hot
quiet run on the way out but quite noisy coming back, not a patch on previous
days run though.
1340 Zhongxin Shisankuang 1450 SY
1209
1700 Shisankuang Zhongxin 1825 SY
1209 to Tianzhuang then change loco for JS 8062 to Zhongxin
Mostly
a quiet trundle but some noise up into Shisankuang and with the JS into
Pingdingshan.
Despite
diesels plenty of JS freights around, also two QJ were in steam, 6450 and 6850
I think.
Dinner
again at the Fandian. Order blind from
the fish menu. It arrives for inspection
in a plastic bag, not quite a fish but a live tortoise peering out. Rather tasty though, meat a bit like mutton or
goat and a jelly tasting like oyster.
All nicely served around and under the shell with the head
separate. Restaurant also has a menu of
speciality teas.
Another
good massage, voucher from previous night saves having to pay for bathhouse,
Y116 (£8) Expensive by Chinese standards
but its above average quality, lots of hot towels & pads and the girls
pamper you rather more than usual.
Wednesday 21 June
0600 Zhongxin Shisankuang 0710 SY
1687
0750 Shisankuang Zhongxin 1015 SY
1687
Slow
and quiet but you can value the tender first outward run from the open
vestibule at the front of the train.
Arrives back 15 late at 1015.
To
Fandian for pre booked taxi to
Cash
machine at airport rejected my Nationwide card twice.
1500
flight to Haerbin, Y1310 (£91), also rather expensive, but it did the business,
saving some long train journeys. Plane
unfortunately goes via Dalian but everything worked well, took off at 1513, 42
minutes on the ground at Dalian, Haerbin arrive 1849, bus departs 1903 and
arrives Haerbin station 1940, just right for the overnights to Jalainuer and
Hegang.
My
choice was to go first to
By
deviously making my way to the gate before it opened I was one of the first to
reach the conductors booth. It was
pandemonium here, everyone pushing, shoving and shouting, glad I was one of the
first. The conductor dealt with some 10
people with priority chits then gave me a berth, Y97 in total (£6.75), cheap as
this is a non a/c train.
Note
that Conductors booths are now always in the second coach from the dining car.
It
took awhile to fight my way through just one hard seat coach, people wedged in
the vestibules and standing all the way along the corridor, food trolley
blocked in, sweating hot but eventually made it from coach 6 to coach 15, a nice
old vehicle with wooden panelling, partly a staff coach. All very traditional, even down to the
attendant washing her feet in the hand basin.
Thursday 22 June
Arrive
A
few timetable alterations:-
0815
Jipei Junli now departs 0830, return arrives back at Jipei 1021. I assume these retimings are to accomodate
the diversion via Junde of the 0655 ex Junli.
On
the Shanzhuang line the morning train is at 0630 from Junli arriving Shanzhuang
at 0740. It returns at 0800, omitting
stops at a number of stations, waits 23 minutes at Fuli to cross the 0830 Jipei
Junli and terminates at 0919,
The
afternoon train departs Jipei at 1540 and is advertised to call at only the
penultimate station arriving Shanzhuang 1635.
It returns at 1655 arriving Jipei 1800.
0630 Jipei Shanzhuang 0740 SY 1030
0800 Shanzhuang Fuli 0834 SY 1030
0858 Fuli Junli 0920 SY 1498
0930 Junli Jipei 1021 SY 1498
1335 Jipei Dalu 1350 SY
1498
1540 Jipei Shanzhuang 1637 SY 1030
1655 Shanzhuang Jipei 1800 SY 1030
1835 Jipei Junli 1920 SY 0799
1930 Junli Jipei 2015 SY 0799
Good
noise from SY 1030 on the delayed 0630, tender first with open vestibule. At Shanzhuang attendants buy live fish from
woman on platform whilst others go off picking wild flowers. On the 1540 the noise up through the final
attractive rural section to Shanzhuang was even better.
On
the evening Junli trains the load is only 2, the return terminates in number 4
road at Jipei.
At
Hegang CNR several express formation trains were seen during the day which
could not be identified from the TT or the station boards. The
Decide
to avoid the rip off skyscraper hotel outside Hegang CNR station and search out
another. Find International Hotel, come
out of the high level entrance to Jipei, turn left along approach road then
instead of turning left at the end towards the bridge and the CNR station go
right to the big roundabout. The
International Hotel is on the left turn just off the roundabout, on the left
hand side. Very good clean en suite room
Y98 (£6.80).
Friday 23 June
No
loco on the 0640 to Xingshan. This
normally means it will be electric. 0630
to Shanzhuang worked by SY 3013, which I need for haulage.
0600 Jipei Junli 0650 SY
0799
0700 Junli Junde - Jipei 0825 SY 0799
Very
crowded outwards with miners to Xing'an and Junli. Stand in front vestibule with many
others. A pleasant spin round the Junde
triangle, mostly attractive and rural but with the ever present coal mines in
the background. Nice views of the loco
going round the curves, gets along well with some good noise. Train well patronised at Junde where there is
a pleasant little village of small traditional houses by the platform. Gets back in late after the usual signal stop
outside Jipei. Well done the man who
sussed out this working!
Walk
to bus station (between the two hotels opposite the CNR station). Given ticket for 0910 bus to
To
my surprise a soft sleeper is sold to me for
Arrive
Haerbin at 1842, 13 late. Only able to
book hard seat on N91 to Jalainuer.
Decide to go to Haerbindong where train starts at 1923 for ease of
excessing. Take taxi with lunatic
driver, departs 1856 arrives 1911, much further away than I thought. Excessing process on this train not
straightforward. Go to booth, ticket
detail written on list then escorted back to my reserved seat (in same coach)
and told to come back later. Conductors
booth then deserted for over an hour until at about 2130 attendant draws my
attention to a huge mass of people surrounding it. I go there and am immediately given a soft
sleeper excess ticket, total price (a/c) Y326 (£22.60).
Saturday 24 June
Arrive
Jalainuerxi 1015. Book return ticket for
Tuesday on train 1302 to Tieling, Y234 hard sleeper (£16.25).
Taxi
to opencast pit, driver demands Y50, I gave him Y20 which is probably far too
much, town fare is Y6 but pit may be outside this area. Huge argument develops, almost come to blows,
only subsides once I take car registration details and threaten to call police.
The
pit and its railway system are an amazing sight, like an enormous model railway
layout. There is some coal traffic (at
the bottom) but most of the traffic is spoil being moved out. Twice counted 19 locos in use and at one time
could see 4 trains on the move uphill.
The main line from Nanzhan to the bottom of the pit is actually double
track and operated by a flagsman on every train (passenger and freight), tablet
working, pointsmen, signal cabins and colour lights, some of which are
portable.
Weather
very hot, retire for long lunch and to book into Florians ludian 200
yards/metres south of the level crossing on the deep mine line (near Daqiao
station). A lot of hesitancy by the
folks at the ludian but eventually they took me in. Room Y30 (£2.10). There is a good cheap retaurant almost
opposite.
To
Daqiao for the 1640 passenger. No sign
of it, staff say come back tomorrow & it will leave at 0820.
Back
to opencast pit, very busy till about 1900, stock for passenger workings
already stabled near platform.
1935 Control Office Spoil Tip 2017 SY 1119
2019 Spoil Tip Control Office 2056 SY 1119
One
coach train, pushed on the outward journey.
A very interesting run. The coach
was very clean and smart with a lady attendant and potted plants on the tables
real ones, not plastic! At this time
of year there was still sunlight for photography until 1945, the sun setting at
2005 then fine views with a deep red glow behind the mountains to the
west.
A
few glimpses near Nanzhan of traditional
On
the return journey we passed three uphill spoil trains flogging away. The pit looked very good in the twilight at
2100 with the black outlines of the locos and trains with headlights on. The pit train departed at 1934 and arrived
back at 2104.
Sunday 25 June
To
Daqiao early morning to check if passenger will run. The coach is there, back to main road for
dumpling breakfast then to station where 5 locos are gathered.
0840 Daqiao Shiyijing 0900 SY 1618
This
line is far from exciting. Mostly urban
passing small houses and general dereliction.
At Shiyijing loco uncouples and disappears down the line. Ladies on the train tell me it will return at
1900, so thats why it was not at Daqiao yesterday afternoon.
Bus
back to Jalainuer (road is quite close) then taxi to opencast mine. Between 1005 and 1145 uphill spoil trains
left the control office at 1009, 1017, 1042, 1116 and 1132. Then the thunderstorms started so retire for
another good cheap lunch at the restaurant almost opposite the ludian returning
to the pit at 1540 after sky clears.
Uphill
trains ran at 1549, 1625, 1635, 1711, 1719, 1728, 1741, 1746, 1818, 1832, 1841,
1848, 1858, 1938(passenger), 1948 and later at 2026, 2038 and 2051. To think that I had been worried Sunday would
be a quiet day!
The
operation is slick and first rate, the reversing point by the control office is
always busy. All locos on both systems
are in fine external condition and seem very sound mechanically.
This
day a fierce dust storm blew up and each evening midges were a real nuisance
from about 1700.
1936 Control Office Opencast Mine
2013 SY 1587
2018 Opencast Mine Control Office
2057 SY 1587
A
fascinating run with locos everywhere.
Superb low sunlight for fotting from 1915 to 1940. A spoil train followed us back up one level
below with some fine thrash. And all
this operates at night as well as daytime.
Private
car taxi back to ludian and another argument over the fare. Note that there are very few taxis or buses
going past the opencast mine.
At
the ludian more complications, different people there who wouldnt accept that
I had paid the previous day. They also
wanted to take my passport to photocopy details. This I refused & did the copying
myself. On future trips I will take
copies from home.
Monday 26 June
0736 Control Office Opencast Mine 0813 SY 1240
0817 Opencast Mine Control Office 0855 SY 1240
Interesting
but not as captivating as previous evenings twilight run. I suspect a run in darkness would also be
good.
The
other train got held up arriving back at 0905 with the result that the empty
coaches were worked back separately to Nanzhan, both locos tender first, one
pulling, one pushing.
The
system was very busy this day with a continuous stream of uphill trains. Some variety with two chimney first hauled
trains (as opposed to pushed), one was a departmental train towards Nanzhan and
the other a downhill spoil train. Again
I counted 19 locos in use.
Back
to the station with yet more taxi hassle from a dubious looking character and
vehicle not fully licensed.
Train
1302 departs at 1316, another smart a/c rake.
Sleepers full of Russians, indeed everybody in Jalainuer assumes you are
Russian. Once again a journey across the
endless Mongolian grasslands and sand dunes with grazing animals, big skyscapes
and even some yurts the first real ones Id ever seen. Not quite the same as Jitong or Ulanhot with
steam haulage but very pleasant nevertheless.
Line also very scenic late evening, the spiral section that once was SL
worked looked very good.
At
Dayan no locos, steam or diesel were seen, just long rakes of new C70 coal
wagons.
Dining
Car on this train (and some others) was opened up to hard seat passengers.
Tuesday 27 June
Tieling
arrive 0813 (18 late). 0827 small bus to
Diaobingshan, takes about 55 minutes.
At
the station a BJ diesel and SY 1770 depart light towards Sanjiazi at 0932.
The
start of a bad day. 0940, 1451 &
1832 to Wangqian, 1406 & 2120 to Dongguantun, 1426 & 1731 to Daqing all
worked by BJ diesels. So I was left with
no choice but to follow the one steam around and spend the day on the
stimulating and exciting Daming branch.
Some
brisk running though on the branch past the collieries and the endless rows of sweet
corn. The Daming rake and one other are
now 3 vehicles only as passenger numbers continue to fall. The 1439 leaves from the main platform at
Diaobingshan rather than the usual Daming line next to the servicing
point. Nice phot of last train leaving
Diaobingshannan.
SY
1770 noted at Sanjiazi 1450 hrs on a coal train off the Wangquan line.
As
if this somewhat tedious days bashing was not bad enough I was then to find
that the famed bathhouse centre had been demolished what is the matter with
this town? So back to the old favourite
hotel by the station, Y100 (£6.90) room with facilities including hot water.
Wednesday 28 June
Up
early, usual hassle getting deposit money back, then to station to check the
0532 to Wangqian it was diesel of course.
However an SY was stood at the other end of the rake indicating a
steamier day ahead.
And
so it was to be:-
SY
1772 backed on to the 0628 to Wangqian, whilst SY 1751 arrived on the 0547 from
Daming. Then better still SY 1770 ran in
on the 0554 from Daqing which formed:-
0829 Dongguantun Diaobingshan 1003 SY 1770
A
lively run on the way out with some good noise but quieter on the return. A very pleasant morning on this rural line
with good scenery in places. Trains on
this line, still load 7, now convey a buffet trolley, a first for a mine
railway?
A
3½ hour wait in Diaobingshan gave time to locate the bus station just up the
road on the left from the bridge where you get off the bus from Tieling, and
check the buses to
1258
ex Daming and 1254 ex Wangquan arrive with SY.
There was a diesel around at 1400, it probably worked the 1426 to
Daqing.
Off
to Dongguantun again:-
1617 Dongguantun Diaobingshan 1756 SY 1770
Nice
afternoon spin, couldnt really think of anything better to do on a summers
afternoon in 2006. Good on the 1617
coming back through the hills & by the lake followed by a fast spurt down
through the Diaobingshan suburbs. Not
too hot either, a mere 84ΊF.
SY
1772 arrives Diaobingshan with 1700 ex Daming and SY 1751 with the 1644 ex
Wangqian.
Note
young lady enthusiast, possibly Japanese, boarding the 1820 to Daming. She had been bashing since at least 0640 in
the morning.
Good
rush hour atmosphere at Diaobingshan with 3 steam locos + 3 rakes in the
station and no diesels. Busy with
commuters, locos arriving, running round trains, being serviced and departing
1832
runs via Xiaonan. An enjoyable twilight
bash with some sprightly running on the rural sections.
Two
SY and no diesels at Diaobingshan at 2045 so the 2120 to Dongguantun was
probably steam.
Thursday 29 June
Up
at 0445 again and yes the 0532 to Wangquan was diesel again so another
leisurely breakfast before starting bashing on a very grey day that turned into
a wet evening.
On
the platform at Diaobingshan two staff of the Tiefa Locomotive Travel Agency
first accost a rather wealthy looking Japanese photter and take him away to
relieve him of money then return to try their luck with me on the 0952. After the usual spiel about operations and
ticket prices being subsidised for local people I am asked if I am taking
photographs, for which there is a fee of Y100.
I reply that I am not taking photos, which causes some confusion between
them. After a while they decide it
impose a charge of Y30 which I argue against for a while then refuse to pay unless
they give me a receipt. By now the clock
has ticked round to 0952 and they have to dive off, asking me to go to their
second floor office on my return. This I
decline to do and instead ask them to come to the platform. When I got back from Daming there was no sign
of them.
1920 Daming Diaobingshan 1956 SY 1772
Just
3 cars so quite full outwards. Return
calls only at Diaobingshannan where all the conductors get off leaving just the
travelling shunter and myself on the train.
Other
trains seen during the day:-
0554
Daqing Diaobingshan SY. Same loco and
stock form 0640 to Dongguantun
0640
Diaobingshan Daming SY
0547,
1700 Daming Diaobingshan both SY
0616
Wangqian Diaobingshan diesel
0940
Diaobingshan Wangqian departed with SY but the
1254
ex Wangqian arrived Diaobingshan with a diesel
1644
Wangqian Diaobingshan diesel
1451
and 1832 Diaobingshan Wangqian assumed diesel.
2120
Diaobingshan Dongguantun diesel
Friday 30 June
Up
at 0445 for the third day running and of course the 0532 to Wangqian was diesel
for the third day running.
0554
Daqing Diaobingshan SY. Same loco and
stock form 0640 to Dongguantun
0628
Diaobingshan Wangqian SY
0547
Daming Diaobingshan SY
0640 Diaobingshan Sanjiazi SY 1767
A
new SY for haulage.
Suffer
diesel on return (0616 ex Wangqian) then taxi to bus station and 0800 bus to
Go
to Wulong for the 1322 to Xinqiu but no sign of it. Wait for the main train which turns up at the
expected time.
1435 Wulong Wangying 1500 SY
0540
1709 Wangying Xinqiu 1827 SY 0540
1840 Xinqiu Wulong 1930 SY 0540
This
rake still load 8. Some good thrash
starts on the 1709. This train departs
Wulong at 1738 and whilst well loaded it is noticeably less busy than a few
years back.
The
1840 departed late at 1847 due to a coal train being sent out in front.
Stay
at usual hotel across road from CNR station, no en suite rooms available, very
clean room without facilities Y60 (£4.20).
Staff friendly and helpful but this cheap room was at the front and
noisy.
Massage
place a few doors along, run by three attractive 30-ish slappers. Massage (only) Y40 (£2.75), quite good and
value for money. Not sure about the
relaxing aspect of it though! Judging by
the hand symbols and the pictures around the walls I think the ladies were
hoping I would purchase an additional service although there was no hard sell
or seduction attempted.
Saturday 1 July
Taxi
to Wulong to check the 0620 to Xinqiu.
Not running, these workings must be discontinued.
0640 Wulong Wangying 0705 SY 0540
0914 Wangying Wulong (0942) Xinqiu 1035 SY 0540
1339 Xinqiu Wulong (1432) Wangying 1455 SY 0540
1714 Wangying Wulong (1738) Xinqiu 1835 SY 0540
1845 Xinqiu Wulong 1934 SY
0540
Good
tender first thrash on both trains to Xinqiu and a good slow speed climb up
into Wangying in the afternoon.
No
sign of any of the other Wulong Xinqiu shuttles.
A
fair amount of SY freight was noted on both days but no electric locos were
seen working. A general air of decay
surrounds this system, most station awnings have been demolished and many
industrial buildings along the way are derelict. Large parts of Xinqiu town centre have been
cleared for redevelopment and there is much new house building on the outskirts
of
The
same coal train that delayed the 1840 the previous evening ran again but
slightly earlier. At the first station
beyond Ajin towards
Back
to same hotel, another clean smart room, with facilities and at the quieter rear
side for Y80 (£5.60). Why do people stay
miles away when you can get such good value here?
Book
ticket for next mornings 6766 passenger to
Massage
place shut at 2110 hrs, such is the nightlife in
Sunday 2 July
To
station barrier at 0601 and there at platform 1 stands a smart new express
train, L702, for
Fight
way past barrier staff and on to the train just as doors are being closed. The set used on this working is off a new
2111/2114
1242 Beijingbei Chengde
2112/2113
1800
I
assume these trains have replaced the Chengde
The
expresses between
L702
0603
L704
0920 approx
L703
1357
L701
1520
L704/L703
uses the stock of the
Book
ticket for
Then
taxi to Nanpiao, or rather two taxis and three drivers. Price is now Y100 (£6.95), up from Y80 two
years ago.
Better
journey though with a new section of fast road near Nanpiao. There are still some bad stretches but no
diversions across fields and watercourses.
Journey takes about 80 minutes.
Arrive
at Huangjia foot crossing 0946, perfect timing just as SY 0366 appears, rolling
down the hill in a haze of black clag with the 0845 from Sanjiazi. A perfect start to a days bashing on a system
that has recently bought a batch of diesel locos.
0945 Huangjia Xiamiaozi 0951 SY 0366
Part
of the railway track bed by Nanpiao market has now been converted into
vegetable plots, giving even more local colour.
On
arrival at Xiamiaozi loco shunted 2 dead diesels around, including repainted BJ
3132. BJ 3246? was on the depot looking
pretty derelict.
At
1010 SY 1478 worked a 3 wagon trip on to the Sanjiazi line and SY 1092 worked
another freight down this line at 1410.
In fact all traffic this day was in the hands of 5 steam locos, what a
bright managerial brainwave it must have been to buy a pile of useless diesels.
A
very hot day. To pass the time away and
stay cool adjourn to bathhouse in basement of restaurant by road
junction/bridge (turn right from railway).
Huge attempt at rip off. Bring
down bill for bathhouse and massage from Y115 to Y60 (£4.20) but still
expensive. That will be my last
visit. The new hotel may do massage, it
does have a smart bathhouse. Walk to
said hotel along the Sanjiazi road (beyond the river bridge/junction) You cant miss the hotel, a big imposing
building on the left. Walking time from
Xiamiaozi platform is 15 minutes.
In
addition to the usual giggling girl waitresses and receptionists the hotel has
an English speaking manageress who informed me that a standard room is priced
at Y188 (£13) but en suite rooms without windows are available at Y128 (£8.90)
A disadvantage of these is that they are on the fifth floor and there was no
lift. On the ground floor is a good fish
restaurant.
1435 Xiamiaozi - Huangjia 1441 SY 0366
1446 Huangjia Xiamiaozi 1452 SY 0366
1459 Xiamiaozi Sanjiazi 1541 SY 1478
1700 Sanjiazi Huangjia 1750 SY 1478
Train
clatters and bounces off into the undergrowth towards Sanjiazi enveloped in
black smoke. This system is a delight,
gently decaying but with a certain charm that accompanies a rundown branch
line. The route is mostly rural and quite
scenic with the occasional factory or mine.
The line follows the rolling contours of the land surrounded by lush
green hills. Some of the rivers and streams even have clear water! Odd bursts of good noise from the loco in
both directions.
Back
at Xiamiaozi an atmospheric crossing with SY 0366 in the platform waiting with
next Sanjiazi service, not too full being a Sunday.
1755 Huangjia Linghe 1842 SY 1478
1850 Linghe Xiamiaozi 1925 SY 1478
The
1755 was much more crowded. Although
this line passes through a much more built up and industrialised area it does
have a background of fine hills and could really be described as scenic. Nice runs in both directions with a fierce
red sun setting behind the hills. Like
the Sanjiazi route this line is undulating with some nice noise from the loco
in places.
1930
hrs at Xiamiaozi saw all 5 SY close by in the dusk, a very fine sight marred
only by a dead diesel in the yard. Watch
SY 0366 depart for Huangjia in the half light before returning to hotel for
another fish meal. I think this is the
first rural Chinese hotel I have ever stayed in.
Monday 3 July
Early
morning phone wake up call at 0400. Out
at 0415 but took a while to wake reception staff and to get deposit
refunded. Already light with people up
and about, including old ladies taking an early morning stroll.
The
first two trains of the day start at Xiamiaozi but if you are staying at the
Nanpiao Hilton you cannot cover them so the report on the QJ Country site about
this new hotel was very welcome news.
I
was a bit worried that diesels might be out today but nearer the station two
columns of clag rose into the dawn air with SYs 0754 and 0973 doing the
business. .
0443 Xiamiaozi Sanjiazi 0517 SY
0754
0535 Sanjiazi Huangjia 0637 SY 0754
Lovely
early morning light on the 0443 with mist in valley. Train nominally non stop but in fact we
stopped at Daguopu and then slipped to a standstill climbing away up the
cutting to the summit.
The
0535 is basically a school train. At one
station about a hundred kids got on.
0642 Huangjia Linghe 0737 SY 0754
0849 Linghe Xiamiaozi 0926 SY 0754
0935 Xiamiaozi Huangjia 0941 SY 0973
The
0642 was equally as crowded as the 0535 from Sanjiazi, mostly people off to
work at the mines. By now the early
morning mist had been replaced by the more usual smog.
Breakfast
on soya bean dumplings at Linghe, an experience best forgotten.
The
train from Linghe also very busy, it arrived Xiamiaozi at 0929 where at the CNR
platform there was no sign of the 0931 to Jinzhou, thereby saving me the
decision of whether to catch it throughout or go down to Huangjia with steam
and hope it would still be there.
So
it was a final rattle down the hill with SY 0973 then a nice phot of the 0945 departing
past the market.
Again
this morning there were five SY in use, covering all the revenue earning
traffic but BJ 3241 had spluttered into life and was down at Huangjia attached
to a wagon with a crane on it.
And
so ended a very satisfying 24 hours at Nanpiao, very glad I took a chance and
gave it a go.
Long
may the diesels continue with this level of activity. Perhaps diesel fuel is too expensive to
use. Whatever the reason it would seem
that buying the diesels was less than a masterstroke by the company. And they tell us that we in the west should
be fearful of the new up and coming
Management
that displays this level of business acumen seem to be more of a threat to
themselves than anyone else.
Taxi
from centre (beyond market and down from the first road crossing) to
Arrive
Taken
by tout and mianbo to hotel on south side of city. Small basic en suite room with no window but
very clean Y160 (£11.10)
Tuesday 4 July
Taxi
back to a quarter of a mile from Beijingzhan for Y10. Couldnt get any closer due to traffic jams
before 0700!
Airport
Bus from International Hotel. These now
run every 15 minutes and depart from the road just by the ticket kiosk.
Home
on BA 039 complete with upgrade. Im
sure my very smart appearance after 22 days in
Total
cost of bash around £1150, not too bad considering this included 3 flights, two
of which were expensive and long distance.
Roger Blundell
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© 2006 Roger Blundell