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Steam in China - December 27th 2000 - January 14th 2001 |
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Report by Mike Tyack Detailed below are the sightings/inconveniences/disasters encountered by my group of 10. The tour consisted of the standard itinerary of Baotou & the Ji-tong line. Flights were with Frog-Flap via Paris - in each direction a Boeing 777 to Beijing. No real nightmares in-flight, but, when you are used to the standard of service of British Airways, Air France comes a distant second. The meals were average in both directions, no sign of the liqueurs despite being advertised in the in-flight meal guide and on the return run there was no orange-juice to be had at all - a fairly essential aspect of in-flight catering! Ground arrangements were handled with the usual efficiency by Sun Xiaolan of CLSLPA in Shenyang. Despite still recovering from 5 broken ribs, a broken leg & collarbone resulting from an accident in July whilst en route to check out the Shenchi-Shuozhou line (had we all known then what we know now, we could have prevented months of pain & distress!), Xiaolan handled the occasional quirky demands of the group (where's the hot water? / my loo doesn't work / when is the weather going to improve?) with her normal good humour. Beijing-Baotou Travelled on Train 177, 15.56 from Beijingxi. 8 of us in soft Sleeper, 2 in Hard Sleeper. The brand-new carriages made the hard sleeper seem like absolute luxury, not something that anyone would ever have dared to say in the '90's! On time arrival at Baotoudong at 04.30, in preparation for the 'avoid the lorry & pot-hole' journey to Dongsheng. Do the drivers of the coal-trucks ever sleep? DONGSHENG - December 29th-31st, 2000 Another one to add to the rumour-mill, depending on who you are prepared to believe! Station staff at Aobaogou claim that traffic will double during 2001 with trains at 45-minute intervals. Yes, well! December 29th A cloudy start to the day to the south of Dongsheng. No wind. Sunrise 0805. By mid-morning the cloud began to break & the rest of the day was clear. Westerly wind picked up early in the afternoon. Sunset 1720. Booked trains at Aobaogou were:- Northbound 10.21 - 41028 Southbound 10.42 - 7415 (passenger) Actual observations as follows:-
Train 41028 was held to give the S/bound passenger priority - the same pattern was repeated the following day. December 30th Another day of excellent traffic levels. Clear & cold. A severe frost overnight gave the impression of a snow-fall! Sunrise 0805. Still in the early morning with a light N/Easterly wind developing towards midday. -10C. Sunset 17.25. Booked timings of Northbound trains at Aobaogou were as follows;- 07.08 - 45122 Actual observations were as follows:-
December 31st A bright start. However high cloud drifted down from the north by mid-morning & the afternoon at Singing Sands was a wipe-out. After the passage of the passenger, we gave up & headed for Baotou with the intention of taking an earlier train from Baotoudong to Hohhot - T274 at 19.07. Back to reality in hard-seat! Booked Northbound workings for the day at Aobaogou were as follows:- 07.08 / 09.16 / 11.35 / 14.03 / 15.43 (pass) / 17.24 Actual observations as follows:-
January 1st, 2001 Happy New Year & a great start, when the planned daylight journey on the Hanlu to Daban was cut short by a change to the working timetable as of 1/1/2001! During 2001, the railcar will operate on EVEN days from Hohhot EVERY month, as the system used during 2000 had proved too confusing & there had been a large volume of complaints from intending passengers that they could not work out the days of operation. Needless to say, it was impossible to elicit information of this change before January 1, so a swift change of plan was called for. Our intended leisurely start at 08.47 turned into an early morning hard-seat journey on T1456 to Jiningnan at 07.12. The delights of travel in China! QJ7058 wandering around at Baita near Hohhot. What was that doing there? The prospect of 5 hours in the wind-swept misery that is Jiningnan was avoided by a long lunch starting at 10.45 until such time as we opted for the safety of a hotel room rather than gate-crash the wedding party that was about to start in the hotel restaurant. Eventually it was time for the overnight train (or so we thought!) to Daban, &, as inveterate Jiningnan visitors, we made sure that no-one was in need of a visit to the world-famous station 'loo'. QJ 6304 took over T6051/4 at Benhong & we settled down for the journey. January 2nd 2001 Haolouku at 0400 & we waited & waited! It had snowed & the snow had drifted. Men with shovels were despatched to clear the cuttings & tunnels. Finally we got to Jingpeng at 08.10 (3.5 hours late) with a frost-encrusted QJ7040 in charge, overtaking QJ6389 & friend waiting with an east-bound freight. As we sat at Jingpeng, what should appear but the previous day's railcar from Daban, due at 20.37 the night before!! The journey onwards to Daban saw a west-bound train in virtually every passing loop, & an eventual 5.5 hour late arrival at 13.30. Travelled by bus from Daban to Lindong - 2 hours.
LINDONG - January 3-5, 2001 It seems that all of the supershine QJ's (6301/6630/6911) at Daban are working the section east to Chabuga. Yamenmiao to Lindong is a stiff west-bound climb for about 15km. Locos take water at Lindong before continuing east/west, so most trains stop here for a minimum of 10/15 minutes. All trains are single-headed. Chabuga to Lindong is approx. 2 hours, Daban to Lindong 3 hours for the standard freight. January 3rd A day of unremitting gloom & wind. Horrible. By mid-morning, I gave up the fight against the 'hack' & returned to the hotel. A good decision. Booked trains were:- Ex Chabuga 06.00 - 44132 08.35 - 22820 10.30 - 44134 12.05 - 51062 14.00 - 51064 16.48 (at Lindong) - 6052 (passenger) 16.20 - 22822 Ex Daban 06.10 - 44175 08.00 - 44135 11.05 - 22847 12.20 - 22849 13.40 - 44129 16.00 - 44143 17.40 - 22811 Actual observations as follows:-
January 4th A clear & still day - whoopee!! High cloud appeared mid-morning, but soon melted away. -24C rising to -17C during the day. The west-bound Daban passenger (6058) was running seriously late - & after obtaining details of the day's workings at 07.30, it dropped another hour against its booked arrival at Lindong! Sunrise - 07.40 at Yamenmiao. Sunset - approx 16.30. Booked service as follows:- Ex Chabuga 05.35 - 44152 08.00 - 22832 09.30 (at Lindong) - 6058 (passenger) 10.10 - 22834 13.20 - 22836 16.48 (at Lindong) - 6052 (passenger) 16.00 - 44134 17.40 - 22838 Ex Daban 07.05 - 44147 10.30 (at Lindong) - 6051 (passenger) 09.40 - 22835 12.45 - 44151 14.50 - 22839 16.10 - 44161 16.55 - 44149 17.40 - 44155
January 5th Clear sky & little wind! Similar temperatures to the previous day. A day which looked good, according to the timetable, but one on which trains just didn't appear within the expected time-scale! By 3.30pm, the first signs of an incoming front from the west were visible. The day was over anyway, so we headed for Reshui! 4 hours by bus - thank goodness it had a heater! Booked workings:- Ex Chabuga 06.15 - 44122 07.20 - 22820 11.30 - 22830 12.30 - 22832 13.50 - 44123 16.48 (at Lindong) - 6052 (passenger) Ex Daban 07.10 - 44125 10.30 (at Lindong) - 6051 (passenger) 11.00 - 22821 12.35 - 44125 14.35 - 44137 15.20 - 44143 16.10 - 22835 17.30 - 44126 Actual observations:-
JINGPENG - January 6-13 Nothing changes - it's still the greatest remaining show on earth! Excellent traffic levels, when the trains turned up! The 01.05 from Haolouku & the 00.55 from Daban were regular late-runners, but never appearing just on sunrise! The late January Chinese New Year undoubtedly kept the traffic moving in the early part of the month. And there appeared to be very little over-night traffic. Substantial snow-falls occured between Christmas & New Year (rumour has it that no trains ran on January 1), but the fronts which produced this snow continued to bounce backwards & forwards. Unlike previous visits the Siberian 'high' was not in charge of the weather patterns at Reshui this year! And the latest in the money-grabbing world - pick the wrong station-staff at Galadesitai & its 10 Wangs for the day's timings! Which is, I suppose, better than the attitude of the staff at Shangdian, who showed both us & a group of Japanese the door, when we asked which train had just passed through! Which brings me to 2 pleas:-
I await the first case of assault & battery on a fellow photographer at Jingpeng & predict that it will not be long in happening! If it can happen at Dongsheng, it can surely happen at Jingpeng. Will this happen during the February 'Plandampf', or will anyone turn up? Surely, this ranks as the 'Greatest Joke on Earth'? Only 2 QJ's were in anything approaching clean condition - 6389 & 6760 - & even that is stretching the definition of the word 'clean'. QJ7009 is barely identifiable! January 6th Weak sun all day through unbroken cloud. Very little wind. Not cold by January standards. Late afternoon it began to snow. Substantial previous snowfalls had made the roads very difficult - is there no such thing as a 'dozer' in China? And we all thought that Britain was unprepared! Booked workings were:- Ex Haolouku 01.05 - 44155 07.00 - 22847 08.20 - 22849 09.20 - 44157 10.35 - 44121 12.35 - 22821 13.30 - 22823 16.35 - 22805 Ex Daban 04.00 - 22824 06.25 - 22820 09.15 - 44126 10.50 - 51042 12.10 - 51044 13.40 - 44102 16.15 - 51046 17.15 - 22820 Actual observations:
January 7th Misty, murky start. Appalling visibility all day - there was none! Little wind. Reshui-Shangdian was WHITE!!! Brightened up late morning & clapped out completely mid-afternoon. Warm at -5C. The best part of the day was the sunset & a corking silhouette of 22826. Booked workings were:- Ex Haolouku 06.30 - 22825 08.35 - 44121 11.30 - 22827 14.00 - 22829 15.30 - 22831 17.30 - 22833 17.50 - 44139 Ex Daban 00.20 - 22824 04.00 - 44132 05.00 - 44134 08.05 - 44136 10.00 - 44138 12.00 - 22826 13.40 - 44140 16.05 - 44102 Actual observations were:-
January 8th Misty, dull. Weak sun all day. Variable westerly wind. Clearance to the north in the afternoon, but did not push far enough south to be of any benefit! Daban operations bore no resemblance to booked workings by the afternoon! By the end of the day the cry was - 'bring back the wind!' Booked workings were:- Ex Haolouku 01.05 - 44133 04.00 - 22835 07.15 - 22827 08.35 - 44135 13.00 - 22839 14.20 - 44127 16.00 - 22807 17.50 - 44139 Ex Daban 00.55 - 44144 08.05 - 44146 09.05 - 44120 13.00 - 22820 14.40 - 22824 16.00 - 22826 Actual operations:-
January 9th The cry was answered! Dawned clear with a brisk south-westerly wind. -20C. Spirits rose! Cloud bank moved back in late afternoon. Spirits dropped! Does anyone know what a 56xxx series means? Booked workings were:- Ex Haolouku 07.30 - 22847 08.40 - 44129 10.00 - 22845 11.40 - 44121 12.30 - 22823 14.40 - 22825 17.40 - 22827 Ex Daban 06.40 - 22832 09.15 - 51042 10.10 - 56002 12.40 - 44102 15.05 - 51044 16.30 - 44130 Actual movements as follows:-
January 10th Clear Start . -25C. Brisk S/W to W wind. Cloud increased mid-morning, as did wind. Snow whipped up from ground into a haze layer. Weak Sun. Remarkably, it cleared completely mid-afternoon. Booked workings were:- Ex Haolouku 01.05 - 44147 06.10 - 44129 07.00 - 22831 09.00 - 22833 10.35 - 44121 12.00 - 22841 13.00 - 22845 16.05 - 22843 17.30 - 22847 Ex Daban 06.55 - 22830 08.05 - 51052 09.00 - 22840 10.50 - 22842 13.05 - 44126 16.00 - 22826 Actual workings were:-
January 11th Clear. Cold. -30C + wind chill = app -40C! Booked workings were:- Ex Haolouku 06.10 - 44137 07.00 - 44139 09.05 - 44141 10.10 - 22855 11.30 - 44145 15.20 - 22817 16.35 - 44127 17.20 - 44129 Ex Daban 04.00 - 22822 07.00 - 51046 08.05 - 22824 09.05 - 22826 12.35 - 22828 14.05 - 51048 15.25 - 51050 Actual workings were:-
January 12th A still day! -25C. Cloud bands around at the start of the day, but cleared late morning. Booked workings were:- Ex Haolouku 06.40 - 22865 08.35 - 44153 09.30 - 44121 11.35 - 44127 13.35 - 44125 15.45 - 22831 Ex Daban 06.10 - 22834 08.05 - 22836 09.00 - 22838 10.20 - 44128 11.50 - 44130 14.55 - 22840 Actual workings were:-
January 13th The last part-day. Still start. Clear. Wind picked up & changed direction as the first eastbound approached - wipe-out at Tunnel 4, we could not even see the locos! We might as well have not bothered & headed to Chifeng after breakfast! Booked workings were:- Ex Haolouku 06.10 - 22831 08.05 - 44131 09.15 - 44133 10.30 - 22833 11.45 - 44121 17.30 - 22815 Ex Daban 06.55 - 22846 08.05 - 44132 09.15 - 44134 11.00 - 44136 12.30 - 22828 Actual workings were:-
Chifeng-Beijing Train 2560 to Beijing, despite being in the timetable at 19.15 from Chifeng, actually departs at 20.20 & arrives in BeijingNAN at 06.43. Once BeijingBEI is re-built (& not before time!), which is due to be completed in June, T2560 is due to revert to its original schedule - we'll see! Thus endeth the saga! Mike Tyack. |
Rob Dickinson
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